Dining options are aplenty along Telok Ayer, from old school local favourites of scissors cut curry rice to cocktail bars like Sum Yi Tai – but, one establishment stands above the rest with a new concept for those wanting to impress with a budget. SORREL (FB/Instagram), named after a fresh and clean lemony herb, serves up exquisite fine dining courses in the whimsical setting of a casual bistro with prices starting from S$45 for lunch, and S$88 for dinner.
The kitchen boasts a young crew in their prime twenties, led by up and coming Executive Chef Johnston Teo. They maintain an open concept, allowing the customers a peak into the delicate work behind the cuisine, all while spreading their ever playful atmosphere on to the rest of us. Fine dining often leaves me feeling restricted, but sitting at the bar and having a friendly conversation with the crew about what they are working on and gushing about hair colours sure sets the ambience for a great meal.
What’s more, watching them work has got me guessing what’s on the menu as everything is served omakase style – a.k.a. leave it to the chef. For, in this kitchen, the chefs do not dictate the menu, but the ingredients do. This style not only promises the highest of quality, but also gives the chefs a chance to, as Chef Johnston says, “explore ways to present a dish in an unexpected way by playing with contrasts and pushing flavours to extremes.”
Snack & Amuse Bouche
The three-course journey began with Chef Johnston Teo giving us a glimpse of what his kitchen has installed for us. Something as simple as the lotus chips I down by buckets during Chinese New Year has taken a whole new meaning just with the addition of that intense burst of flavour from the Curry Emulsion. Then, came the Beetroot Sorbet with Balsamic Jelly, dressed up as a seemingly simple grape. Flavours I would never really put together – the sugary sweet beetroot versus the tartness of the Balsamic – joined forces with the Hot Hibiscus Tea to invigorate the palate.
Oh, and that petite plate/cup is just plain adorable.
Appetiser
SORREL prides itself in the freshest of ingredients – a point most proven by seafood. I mean, just take a look at those plump Mussels. They had a sweetness with the slight brine reminiscent of the ocean, combined with the texture of a delicate mushroom. Its flavour was amplified by the pistou (a cold sauce similar to pesto) and the decadent clam soup base, but was, surprisingly, balanced out by the fresh cherry tomatoes and fennel salad.
Mains
The main dish was an earthy one; with the nutty flavours of the lentils, woodsy pickled mushrooms and tender chunks of their braised pork collar. Ingredients, once again, play an important role here – not all pork collars are “made” equal. You need a good proportion of fat and meat to make a good braise, like SORREL’s, where essentially the fat had melted off to leave behind a lean yet tender centrepiece. The braise and contemplative pairing with the lentils got someone like me, who avoid such meaty dishes for the fear of feeling overloaded, to clean off the plate faster than the rest – quite an accomplishment.
Pre-Desert
To start off, the only time I had Bergamot was when it came with my Earl Grey. What’s more, I actually got a little worried when they told me that it came with a bright green cucumber jelly. Not knowing what to expect, I had a mouthful and before I knew it, it was all gone and I wanted another – sadly, SORREL has perfected the badass move of “leaving you wanting more”. It was incredibly refreshing, what with the strong citrus of the bergamot, refreshing cucumber with a mild mint-like element and the sweet, melt-in-your-mouth buttermilk snow. A great follow-up from the previous meaty plate, while getting my palate ready for the desert we have all been waiting for.
Sweets
While the distinct flavour of the unattractive parsnip can be a deal breaker for some, I am diehard fan of the honey mustard roasted versions during Christmas. It carries a version of sweetness very different from its close relative, the carrot. Carrying almost a mild nutmeg-like spice flavour, it worked incredibly well with the rich white chocolate – giving a dimension to an otherwise normal ice cream. The other elements on the plate, from the Black Olive Salted Caramel to the Hazelnut cake were all done amazingly well, and kept light, but ultimately, I cannot get rid of my imprint on that ice cream. I need it on a cone ASAP.
Strangely, the best part of the meal came right at the end. The simplest, and cutest petite Basil Madeleines fresh from the oven. Soft, fluffy, slight crisp on the outside with a strong waffling aroma thanks to the bits of Basil, I actually sat there for a moment unable to speak. At least, not till Chef Johnston started showing off this sheet of Koji-flavoured to-be-dish in front of me and got me all curious – which, he joked playfully that I will only know what he decides to make of it when I come by next time. What a tease.
Of Sorrel
Let’s be honest here, food is more than just a meal, but a medium for getting together with great company. SORREL has done well, from its exquisite seasonal menu that promises to be a surprise every time you visit, to the light-hearted and welcoming ambience of the restaurant thanks to the crew. While some would agree that this is a baby establishment with room for improvement, I am intrigued by the passion of experimentation and fresh ideas the crew boasts – I don’t know about you, but I am excited to make another visit and let Chef Johnston and his team surprise me with what new ingredients or techniques they have stumbled upon. I am a willing volunteer!
SORREL is located at 21 Boon Tat Street, Singapore 069620 (nearest MRT Tanjong Pagar). 3-course menus are at S$45/pax (lunch only), 5-course menus at S$88/pax (Lunch and Dinner) and 7-course menus at S$118/pax (dinner only). Wine pairings are available at an additional cost of S$90.
About the Writer
Jessica is a young lady of many obsessions. She gets herself into everything ranging from the latest in the monochrome fashion world (she only wears black, and sometimes, white) to convincing the masses that Community is the best TV series ever made.
Currently, she enjoys looking like Sailor Mercury had a baby with Wednesday Addams.
