“The Beast of Dufftown” has arrived in town! One of Scotland’s finest Single Malts, Mortlach is now available in Singapore in three new expressions; Rare Old (S$108), 18-Year-Old (S$360) and the 25-Year-Old (S$1,200) over at Whisky World. But, just how much did it stand up to its reputation? We had the sweet Georgie Bell a.k.a. Miss Mortlach giving us the low down on each expression during a tasting session over at Gibson (above Humpback).
Scotland’s Best Kept Secret
Of course, one cannot start appreciating the beauty of this near-triple distilled scotch without learning a little of its history – all 190 glorious years of it.
There’s a saying that goes “Rome was built on seven hills, Dufftown built on seven stills.” No really. If you ever get a chance to visit, you’d be greeted by a signpost declaring it as the “Whiskey Capital of the World”! And, of course, Mortlach was one of them.
While it started in 1823, its road to global recognition did not pave till the Cowie family performed their magic. Namely, 1853, where George Cowie’s passion for engineering lead him to a partnership with the distillery. Confident in its rich flavours, he took it to London and the deal was set. It took no time at all for Mortlach to grow a reputation, eventually becoming the malt whiskey of choice for blenders in the 1860s.
His son, Dr. Alexander Mitchell Cowie, continued in his footsteps and took control of the distillery in 1896. But, more than continuing the family legacy, he brought on his scientific education and analytical mind to create a unique distillation system – the 2.81 distillation process. “Like three distilleries in one still house”, it is what gives Mortlach its winning flavour profile.
William Grant (of William Grant & Sons) actually trained at the Mortlach distillery for a good 20 years before founding Glenfiddich! I shudder to think what the world would’ve missed if the Cowie family took a different path in history.
Rare Old (43.4% ABV, S$108)
We start off with the Rare Old which does not have an age statement but averages 12 years. It carries the complexity we are familiar with Mortlach, with an delicate balance of vanilla cream and salted caramel notes. The fudgy sweetness lasts on the palate, growing with each mouthful. It makes for a great after-dinner whiskey. Think Christmas dinner, where everyone is belly-full with thanks. Serve it with a nice block of ice, giving it a nice syrupy texture for that warm, sweet ending to a perfect night.
18-Year-Old (43.4%ABV, S$360)
The next step up of this premium range is the 18-Year-Old – for those who like their whiskies robust. It invites you with its rich, nutty tones on the nose, and leaves you wanting more with its fine interplay of dark chocolate and burnt caramel trail at the end. Georgie gushes about how this would be perfect on a cold Scottish night in front of a roaring fire place, and having a had a sip of it, I imagined just the same.
<Editor’s Note: The 18 year old leaves an intense spicy after effect. >
25-Year-Old (43.4% ABV, S$1,200)
Then comes the coveted powerhouse, the 25-Year-Old. Energetic and bold yet elegant, this bottle defines Mortlach. Picking it up you get a whiff of vanilla, slight citrus and tinge of lit tobacco, which surprises with the first sip of dark chocolate and roasting spices (Star Anise, anyone?). It builds into a more oaky mid-palate and trails into a creamy vanilla-tinged end. I can try my best to describe that moment all I want, but you have to taste it to believe it.
Really, what a fantastic gamble it was. Think about it, when you place that golden amber liquid into a cask and opening it it years later, you’d never know how it is going to turn out. And, thank goodness, Mortlach has gotten a winner this gloriously rich dram aged in refill Bourbon barrels. Quite literally, too. It already has Best Single Malt Scotch 25 Years Old (International Whisky Competition 2015) and Gold in Speyside Single Malts 19-30 year old (2015 Scotch Whiskey Masters) under its belt!
<Editor’s Note: This is a personal favourite. The robust flavours from this 25 year old goes perfectly well with a cigar. A choice for the discerning.>
The Perfect Serve
As to how to fully enjoy this legendary single malt, Georgie says, “There’s no perfect way to drink whisky, save the one you like best. But as Mortlach’s a big whisky, I like to savour it. Curled up in a favourite armchair in front of a roaring fire at home in Scotland, with a pitcher of water at my side so I can add a little if I’m feeling like it. The 25 year old, if I’m very lucky, but any Mortlach is a treat.”
I couldn’t agree more, Georgie.
<Editor’s Note: Mortlach is served at craft bar, and some country clubs here in Singapore. Its recent entry of a month or so into Singapore’s retail and bars comes after a successful launch in the global travel retail launched six months ago.>
