Centuries back, scotch was already prevalent. All around Scotland, the locals were making their own whisky with whatever they had, and whichever water source they could find. One such distillery was the Tobermory (formerly, Leidag, pronounced led-chig), located on Isle of Mull off the West Coast since the 18th Century. It, like the rest of Scotland, is an under-explored natural terrain steeped in mystery and legend, making some of the best whiskies unknown to us.
“Today’s rain is tomorrow’s whisky.” – Ian McMillian, Master Blender & Distiller of Burn Stewart.
In 1993, Burn Stewart did an adventurous venture. They brought over the neglected distillery and gave it to Master Blender & Distiller Ian McMillian with the mission to get it up and running again. He took his 40 years of experience to overhaul this historical piece of the island. It took him 10 years of tender, loving care; 10 full years seeing absolutely nothing before he could finally introduce the world to Tobermory’s signature heavily peated distillate – which he jested, “I enjoy giving them Gaelic names people can never pronounce!”
A Taste of Tradition
He stopped by the quaint 27 Scotts Road, the final stop after his world tour which included big players like Dubai and Taiwan, to show us the best Tobermory has to offer. With so many bottles in the market, he enthuse that the distillery brings a special touch of tradition to the table. He did it the old fashioned way, just like when the distillery did over 200 years ago – no machinery automation, and only the irreplaceable human touch.
He adds on, adamantly, that all his whiskies are unchilled and unfiltered. This imparts a cloudiness upon addition of a drop of water or ice; a sign of the natural fatty acids, esters and proteins, and, evidently, a higher alcohol level!
Let me explain (in the words of Ian, as I had no idea as well). These beauties occur naturally during the distillation, or imparted from the cask during its maturation. They are part and parcel of the final aroma and flavour of the whisky, which, unfortunately, clumps together when chilled and ridded off by filtration. What’s the point of maturing these babies so long in the casks if you are just going to waste them away!?
In true Scottish manner, these whiskies will tend to have a 46% ABV or above, as it keeps the cloudiness from forming. These natural fatty acids can also be seen clinging to the sides of the glass, slowly gravitating back towards the chestnut-coloured whisky; another mark of a good scotch according to the master.
(The bottle will also receive a handcrafted copper momento created from retired distillery stills. It will also entitle them to a bottle of Leidag 10 Year Old from the last distillate from the now retired stills in 2025.)
Well, I could go on about that for ages, but what really matters the most is how this 42 year old unchilled, unfiltered whisky taste likes!?
To start, it had a deep, luxurious chestnut shade and an intense sherry aroma thanks to spending the last 14 of its 42 years in Orloroso Sherry cask. Though, the most obvious yet unexpected quality of this beauty is the sooty, slightly salted smokiness that it imparts. A quick chat with Ian and fellow tasters let me understand that the smoky quality reaches its peak at about 10 years, and, sadly, starts disappearing – which is why Ian, himself, was also taken aback when he first gave it a try. While he regrettably does not know what the whisky went through to get this effect before he took over, he is incredibly excited to see what turns out of the remaining casks he has reserved behind for his own experimentation!
Back to topic, the whiskey was splendid. So splendid that me and the fellow tasters were stubbornly convincing Ian to give us another, even if it’s just a drop! It starts off dry and smooth, and ends with a spicy and smoky tail. The complex layers of dark chocolate, coffee and cherry, and black peppercorn overtones stayed on the palate long after a taste, thanks to natural fatty acids. No doubt, this is whisky meant to be savoured.
So, where can I get it?
I bet you are all sick of my rambling, and really, just want to taste this for yourselves right now. The good news is that they are here in Singapore! It will be available at The Whisky Store at S$7,000; with a handcrafted copper momento, created from the retired distillery stills that produced the original liquid, which entitles you to a special bottle of Leidag 10 Year Old from the last distillate now laid to rest in first fill bourbon casks. There are only 500 available worldwide, with 20 in Singapore (well, 10 as of early May), and will never be produced again!
If you do not have S$7,000 lying around, you can do yourself a favour and still check out the rest of what Tobermory has to offer. The same unchilled, unfiltered method are applied to all and each has its own distinct notes and finish; the Leidag 18 Year-Old seems to be my favourite in nursing my sorrows of never being able to taste the 42 Year Old again.
About the Writer
Jessica is a young lady of many obsessions. She gets herself into everything ranging from the latest in the monochrome fashion world (she only wears black, and sometimes, white) to convincing the masses that Community is the best TV series ever made.
Currently, she enjoys looking like Sailor Mercury had a baby with Wednesday Addams.
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I need whisky. Thanks.
Next time we go and drink okay? – Adrian