The Fall/Winter 2013-14 Collection from VALENTINO comes from magical realism with naturalness portrayed. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli observe the paintings by Flemish masters and recognise their undeniable connections with the contemporary world we live in – serene, self possessed yet never static femininity with a sense of detail and pleasure of an aesthetic and cultural métissage; and a taste for colour.
Inspired by a historic moment of great ferment, travels and exchanges, they reflect a sense of the present that is fueled by contrasts. A passion for mélange is expressed through a distinctive, vibrant approach. Combining different styles and interpretations becomes a method and creates a mood. The message possesses the penetrating precision of lightness: play with fashion and surprise yourself through continuous reinvention and consistent change.
The desire to use light for vivid depictions replaces an urgency for definition. The collection weaves together elements, united in a composite design, that freely interpret the essence of contemporary grace and restore its countless nuances. Silhouettes are sleek and seemingly severe: small and curved like a vase or straight, they reveal the legs, graze the knee, and touch the ankle. Fragile sensuality is subtly expressed through square necklines that, like a cropped portrait, draw attention to the face. Everything reveals the personality of the woman and illuminates her features: white leather cut-out collars are applied to alpaca coats and little black dresses, while blouses with Calvinist simplicity are worn under clothes. Embellishments blend with materials: carpet textures, embroidery inspired by Delft ceramics, and chiné and jacquard motifs that reproduce them on knitwear. Reference to other cultures is constant yet restrained, creating impalpable lines in a selection of pilgrim colors.
The palette is pervaded by a light that expands the chromatic horizon: shades of blue, pale yellow, scarlet red and gray are combined to attract and hold attention. Black creates rhythm. Even fabric becomes color to enhance the result: wool/silk, chiné silk, alpaca, brocade and carpet.
Accessories reveal a sensual severity. Wide tongues on shoes with chunky heels expose the sides of the foot to reveal yet cover. Patent leather and velvet are used together on lace-up shoes. Bags are a sensuous carnal red.
Combining rigor and seduction, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli create a dazzling contrast that allows the woman to choose her look.
